How to Tell If Your Levi’s Jeans Are Vintage — And Could They Be Valuable?

Finding an old pair of Levi’s at a thrift store can be exciting.

You turn them over, spot that familiar red tab and start wondering:

Are these actually vintage? And could they be worth something?

Levi’s has been making blue jeans for more than 150 years. Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis received their patent for riveted work pants in 1873, beginning the history of what eventually became the iconic Levi’s 501®.

With so many decades of Levi’s in circulation — plus modern reproductions of historic styles — dating a pair isn't as simple as looking for one particular tag.

Here are some of the clues we look for.

1. Start With the Famous Levi’s Red Tab

Look at the right back pocket.

Levi’s introduced its Red Tab in 1936. Originally, LEVI’S appeared in all capital letters. In 1971, the branding changed to Levi’s, with a lowercase “e.” Collectors commonly call the earlier version the Big E.

So, generally:

LEVI’S — Big E: associated with original pre-1971 pieces.

Levi’s — little e: introduced in 1971.

But here's where things get interesting.

A Big E Doesn't Automatically Mean It's Old

Levi’s reintroduced the Big E in 2018 on premium products. The company also produces Levi’s Vintage Clothing reproductions based on historic garments.

That means finding a Big E today isn't proof that you've discovered a pair from the 1950s or '60s.

Check the rest of the garment.

2. Look for a Care Tag

The inside of the jeans can tell you almost as much as the outside.

Levi’s began adding production tags during the 1970s and later added care labels. According to Levi Strauss & Co., the absence of a care tag can therefore be one clue pointing toward a pre-1970s garment.

Modern Big E Levi’s will have the contemporary interior labels that an original pre-1971 garment wouldn't have.

This is a perfect example of why several clues should agree before dating a garment.

3. Examine the Inseam

Turn the jeans inside out.

Levi Strauss & Co. says that almost all Levi’s produced before the mid-1980s featured a single felled inseam, with a single stitch running down the inner thigh.

It's another small construction detail that can help narrow down an era.

4. Check for Selvedge Denim

Selvedge denim has a clean, finished woven edge that can often be seen when the leg is cuffed or when you examine the inside seam.

Historically, shuttle looms created this tightly finished edge. Levi’s still sells selvedge denim today, however, so selvedge doesn't automatically equal vintage.

Think of it as another clue rather than a date stamp.

5. Button Fly or Zipper?

The classic 501® is known for its button fly, a design that dates back to a time before zippers were used in jeans.

But don't assume every zipper-fly Levi's is modern.

Levi's has produced numerous styles over the decades. For example, vintage 505™ jeans are known for their zipper fly, while the 501® retained its famous button fly.

The model or lot number matters.

6. Look at the Back-Pocket Construction

Tiny changes in construction can sometimes narrow the date considerably.

For example, Levi’s historically used rivets at the back pockets of 501® jeans. In 1966, those rivets were replaced with bar tacks.

That creates an especially interesting period for collectors: Levi's says the combination of bar-tacked back pockets and an original Big E Red Tab existed from approximately 1966 to 1971.

These are exactly the kinds of details that can turn an ordinary-looking pair of old jeans into something much more interesting.

7. Check the Patch

Look at the famous Two Horse patch on the back waistband.

Its material, graphics, wording and condition can provide clues about the jeans' age and model.

Don't date a pair solely from the patch, though. Levi's continues to use the Two Horse design today.

Instead, compare the patch with everything else you're finding on the garment.

8. Look at Buttons, Rivets and Stitching

Don't overlook the hardware.

Examine the:

• Waistband button
• Fly buttons
• Rivets
• Back-pocket stitching
• Arcuate stitching
• Belt loops
• Inseams
• Hems

Vintage Levi's can have construction details that changed over time, and collectors sometimes use combinations of these features to narrow down production periods.

One detail by itself usually isn't enough.

What About Orange Tab Levi’s?

Not every interesting vintage Levi's has a Red Tab.

Levi's also produced its famous Orange Tab line, and genuine older Orange Tab jeans and clothing have become collectible in their own right. Levi's identifies classic Orange Tab pieces among the vintage products sought by collectors today.

So don't automatically pass over a thrift-store pair simply because the tab isn't red.

Are Vintage Levi’s Actually Valuable?

They can be, but the word vintage doesn't automatically make a pair valuable.

Value can depend on:

• Age
• Model and era
• Rarity
• Original details
• Condition
• Size
• Wash and fading
• Alterations
• Repairs
• Current collector demand
• Provenance or documented history

An ordinary older pair may have relatively modest resale value, while an especially rare and historically significant pair can be highly collectible.

The important distinction is:

Vintage and valuable aren't the same thing.

Don't Forget About Reproductions

This is probably more important today than it was when many older Levi's identification guides were written.

Levi's itself makes Levi's Vintage Clothing, recreating historic versions of its jeans.

For example, the company currently produces a reproduction of its 1966 501®, complete with selvedge denim, Big E Red Tab and period-inspired construction details.

At first glance, something like that can look very convincing.

That's why the interior tags and the complete garment matter.

The Best Way to Date Vintage Levi’s

Rather than relying on one feature, put all the evidence together.

A Big E might tell you something.

A care tag tells you something else.

Then consider the inseam, selvedge, buttons, rivets, pocket construction, patch, lot number and country of manufacture.

The more clues that point toward the same period, the stronger your identification becomes.

How We Research Levi’s at ItsADeal.ca

At ItsADeal.ca, we handle a lot of denim, including Levi's, and we don't want to describe something as vintage just because it looks old.

When we come across a potentially older piece, we examine its labels, tabs, construction and other identifying details and research what we find.

Sometimes that confirms we've found a genuinely vintage piece.

Other times, it tells us something completely different.

And that's part of what makes secondhand shopping so much fun.

The next pair hanging on a thrift-store rack might simply be a great pair of jeans.

Or those tiny details could reveal that they've already lived through several decades of fashion history.

Happy thrifting!

From ItsADeal.ca — affordable fashion, secondhand finds and unique pieces waiting for their next chapter.